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Another couple of miles up the

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  • Another couple of miles up the

    There is a throwback quality to those who travel this far north, an eccentricity reminiscent of early explorers who were not deterred by extremes or afraid of challenging situations. After leaving Murmansk, it takes two days to reach the pack ice. This is the realm of the polar bear, where human visitors face a new set of rules. From here onwards, the frozen silence, the supernaturally white panoramas, and the murky gloom of the frigid ocean below seem endless. As 50 Years of Victory slices through the blank landscape, the thunderous groan of the ship's steady progress reverberates through its red-painted, reinforced hull. Passengers wrapped in thick layers of warm clothes stand on the bow, watching the ice split, snap and crack, followed by the blue of the Arctic Ocean surging through, as if gasping for breath.

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